Gaeira's Anvil (A&S)

Stitches and Seams

Gaeira's Anvil...BLOG

Metalsmithing Resources

* Sawing Tips
*Metal Alloy Table
*Suppliers
*Class Handouts


Personal A&S
Projects
- Viking Apron Dress
- Viking Under Dress

- Tablet Woven Belt
- Tablet Woven Belt, 2nd

- Woven Pouch

- Shawl
-
Cloak

RESEARCH

Viking Age: Jewelry
Metallic
- Construction

-
Brooches
Non-Metallic
- Lampwork, Glass Beads

Viking Age: Textiles
- Clothing
- Female Clothing
- 'Apron' Dress / VAD

- Hood
- Kaftan

- Leg Coverings NEW

Period Fiber Arts
- Fiber: Flax
- Fiber: Hemp
- Fiber: Lime Bast
- Fiber: Icelandic Wool
- Spinning
- Weaving
- Wool Felting
- Tablet Weaving
- Nålebinding
-
Sprang and Fingerloop
- Icelandic Textiles

-
Edge Finish

- Textile Decorations

* Stitches and Seams

* Embroidery
* Sewing Tips
* Dress Form



Miscellany
- Bone, Antler, and Horn

- Footware

ICELANDIC VIKINGS
- Research
- Textiles
- Burial
- Animals
- Icelandic Wool
- Miscellany

VIKINGs/Norse
- Arts
- Burial
- Heraldic Display
- Viking/ON Names
- Runes
- Conferences
- Voyages
- Miscellany


- Heraldry
- Heraldic Display
* SCA Heraldry

- Silk Painting
* SCA Dates

- Resources/Links

ABOUT

CLASSES
-- Class Handouts

HOME

Web: Gæira's Anvil Jewelry
on CrimsonKraken.com

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ETSY: Jewelry

*Modern
----------------------------------------
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FB: Gæira's Spindle (Textile Research)

IDD Guilds

Web: IDD Metalsmiths' Guild

FB: IDD Gilded Dragon

Web: IDD Gilded Dragon


The Viking and Anglo-Saxon Stitches

- Running Stitch (varient: Stab Stitch, one stitch at a time)

- *Hem or Hemming Stitch ** [spiral shape]

- *Whip Stitch (varients: Oversewing and Overcast Stitches) [spiral shape]

- Blanket Stitch **&*** (varient: Buttonhole Stitch)

- Herringbone Stitch**


* Various sources have them marked down as different categories so sometimes they say 4 stitches others say 5 stitches.
The Whip Stitch and the Hem/Hemming Stitch are very similar stitches.
The Whip Stitch is at the edge of the fabric (like the Blanket Stitch) and helps to prevent fraying or unraveling.
The Hem/Hemming Stitch goes through 2 or more layers of fabric.


Additional SCA Period Stitches

- Split Stitch *** (great solid lines, but also a thin and delicate looking outline; used for filling in areas, you can do ALL of your embroidery with this single stitch)

- Chain Stitch *** (great for thickly outlining designs)


Also depending on time period/region:

- Back Stitch
- Stem Stitch***
- Satin Stitch*** (to fill in areas)
- Couching***
- Bayeau Stitch***


** Decorative Edging / Hemming Stitches

*** Embroidery Stitches / Techniques



An Unseamly Mistake — Seam Topstitching *****
by Kass McGann


Decorative Stitches and Seams

Sherts, Trewes, & Hose .ij. : Documentable Details ***** NEW
by by maistre Emrys Eustace, hight Broom
- Sewing Overview, Buttons & Buttonholes, Braided cords, Cloth Buttons, Eyelets, Neckline Facing, Tablet-woven edge treatment, T&C p 161, Estimated Times to Manufacture Clothes, Garters and Dags (with citations)

Medieval Sewing Techniques: Stitches, Seams & Sewing NEW
by Rosalie Gilbert
"SEWING TUTORIALS - STITCHING - JOINING FABRIC - HEMMING - NECKBANDS - EYELETS EYELET CONSTRUCTION - BUTTONHOLE CONSTRUCTION - REINFORCED EDGES"

Stitches and Seam Techniques (mirror) (28-page PDF) *****
on Viking Clothing Guides: Looking for the Evidence - Historical research
by Jenny (Jennifer) Baker
- Shows how to make each stitch as well as where extant finds were made, how the stitch was used, etc.
- I've been told that on page 18, #5, the London stitch for hemming is 2 threads not 2 colours, I'm trying to find out more about that.

Database of Stitches from Extant Textiles (30-page, PDF)
by Sabrina de la Bere

Early Period Seam Treatments (10-page PDF) *****
by Diane S. Dooley / Lady Nastassiia Ivanova Medvedeva (main)
- Her other handouts.

Archaeological Sewing *****
by Heather Rose Jones

Sewing Stitches Used in Medieval Clothing Compilied **
by Jennifer L. Carlson

Glossary of some medieval clothing terms
by I. Marc Carlson

Viking Embroidery Stitches and Motifs
by Carolyn Priest-Dorman / Þóra Sharptooth

Reconstructing a Viking Hanging Dress from Haithabu
by Peter Beatson and Christobel Ferguson
- Go down to the section, 'Construction details'.

Run & Fell - Instructions for run and fell seams **
by Ydalir Vikings

Equipment Guide #1 Basic Costume (80-page PDF) ***
Originally Compiled by Russell Scott for THE VIKINGS Ex Libris:
by The Vikings (Resources -> Guides)
- p. 53-55 'Annex 3 - Stitch Types'
- p. 56-58 'Annex 4 - Basic Tablet Weaving'
- p. 60-62 'Annex 6 - Practicle Naalbinding'
- p. 70-71 'Annex 10 - Sewing Leather'

Dark Age Stitch Types - Viking and Saxon Stitches
on an unofficial site for The Vikings! (NFPS)
"This document was taken from Annex 3 titled "Stitch Types" of The Vikings (NFPS) - Equipment Guide No. 1 Basic Costume. It has been editorialized a bit for the WWW."
- So it is a HTML version of the link above for p. 53-55 'Annex 3 - Stitch Types'.

Embroidery for Clothing - Anglo-Saxon (link to 24-page PDF)
by Jane Stockton
- p. 8-9 'Stitches'

Fun with Norse/Viking Embroidery
by Gregor Reinhardt von Holstein and Genoveva von Lübeck

Regia Anglorum - Basic Clothing Guide Hems and Seams
on Regia Anglorum

Early medieval textile remains from settlements in the Netherlands. An evaluation of textile production
by Chrystel R. Brandenburgh
Journal of Archaeology in the Low Countries 2-1 (May 2010)

Early Gaelic Dress An Introduction (30-page, PDF) ***
by Scott Barrett / Finnacan Dub


Stitches (How-To)

Medieval Hand Stitching – Basic Stitches (Start Here) **** NEW
Hand Stitching and Finishing Techniques **** NEW
Hand Sewing Tutorials **** NEW
by Sidney Eileen

Working the Running Stitch
How to Work the Back Stitch
Directions for Working the Blanket Stitch
Working the Stem Stitch and Variations of the Stem Stitch
Working the Chain Stitch
Directions for Working the Herringbone Stitch
- Herringbone Stitch - Tied (I do not know if this is period)
- How to Work the Double Herringbone Stitch(I do not know if this is period)
Satin Stitch - Basic
- Satin Stitch - Long & Short (I do not know if this is period)
by Cheryl Fall, Licensed to About.com

Embroidery Stitches
A Complete List of the Stitches on This Site
from Cheryl Fall, former About.com Guide

Stitches for Gorgeous Gloves
Photo: Maryellen McGoldrick

Embroidery Stitches
Embroidery Tips
Sewing Tips (modern)
by Penguin and Fish.com

Hand Stitches (8-page, PDF)
by University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture
- Includes tips for basic hand sewing

Flat Felled vs French Seams
by Shannon

Flat-felling a curved seam <---
by Carolyn

Blanket Stitch Tutorial - Finishing
by Tamara Bostwick

Stitch Directory, Surface embroidery stitches, Stitch Dictionary

by Kelly Fletcher

Flat Felled Seam with Trim {Tutorial}
on Americansewingguild.blogspot.ca
- For a modern take, not period.


Later Stitches

14th Century Garment Construction Techniques
by Merouda Tremayne

Finishing: Fancy Hemming and Needlelace Edgings in the 16th C Fall (3-page, PDF)
by Sabrina de la Bere
- More class handouts.

How to Hand Sew Eyelets
NEW
by Sidney Eileen


Modern Embroidery Sites

Tips & Techniques (main page) *****
by Mary Corbet's Needle 'n Thread

Mary Corbet's Needle 'n Thread & non-FB
http://www.needlenthread.com  

Racaire's Embroidery & Needlework
& non-FB
http://embroidery.racaire.at

Sarah's Hand Embroidery Tutorials
Picture Dictionary
by Sarah and Rocksalt

The Cutting Class
"The Cutting Class provides an online analysis of key haute couture and ready-to-wear collections with a focus on construction techniques and design methodology"


* On my Viking Apron Dress (VAD*) go to the, 'About VAD' section. Many of the links have details about extant beads, brooches, stitches, decorations, etc.







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  02Feb2018