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The Skjoldehamn hood
Nye tanker om Skjoldehamnfunnet (209-page, PDF)
by Dan Halvard Løvlid
Masteroppgave i arkeologi (Masters thesis)
Institutt for AHKR
Universitetet i Bergen, Høsten 2009
The Skjoldehamn find in the light of new knowledge
By Dan Halvard Løvlid
English Translation by Carol Lynn
More information and links at Ceiling Press.
I've been trying to translate sections of this thesis, using Google Translate and it's not easy to do, which has information about this find and item.
I was trying to find anything about how the main piece of fabric was woven and/or also cut so that there is a opening at the front. I wasn't able to find anything during my quick search and translate through several sections. Someone who reads Norwegian should be able to find anything if it's there.
Until the official translation of teh thesis is made available (on Ceiling Press):
Theory 1:
That the main piece was woven as one whole rectangle and afterward the face slit and front gore slit was cut.
In this case the two short sections of fabric that are not cut for the front face hole and front gore are left there to:
- give the hood more structural strength by reducing the number of connecting pieces of fabric forming the seem and connecting the sections, from three down to two.
This is a much cleaner seem and has more structural strength.
- reduces the bulk under the chin and above the forehead since the seems aren't going all the way to the outer edge and touching the face.
This looks better and is less bulky
Theory 2:
That they wove the piece so that the sections that have a 'slit/opening' use two separate shuttles so that the 'opening' has clean selvedge edges and don't need any hemming, just decorative stitches. The two sections where there is a short connecting piece that would use one shuttle going across the whole length of the fabric being woven.
Yes this is extra work while weaving, but reduces the amount of lost fabric from hemming (the amount of fabric folded over and not used as surface area for the hood) ,as well as saves on thread to sew it up and gives a a stronger garment.
Other cultures that used a Warp-Weigthed Loom used this technique for the neckhole slits/openings (as I recall both Ancient Egypt and Rome).
in Dan Halvard Løvlid's thesis, "Nye tanker om Skjoldehamnfunnet" (link above)
Figure 3, Page 40
"The left side of the hood. This is the best preserved side, with parts of the front gore still connected. The hood is made of three parts (not four); a front gore, a back gore and one quadratic piece of fabric. This piece is wrapped in the front, and slits have been cut in the wrap to make room for the front gore and face opening. The piece has then been sewn together in the top and in the neck and to the back gore."
Figure 4, Page 41
"The dimensions of the left side."
- This shows that the two short lengths (2.5 cm and 1cm) are not cut, at least from what I can make out in the drawing, I still need to translate that section.
Figure 77, page 160
"The hood when the braids are tied together in the back of the head. This leads to expanded side view, and that the hood follows the movements of the head."
A Tunic and Hood from Skjold Harbour NEW
by Ásfríðr Úlfvíðardóttir / Rebecca Lucas / Rebecca Le Get
Hette fra Skjoldehamn-funnet
on Prosjekt Fritid
Skjoldehamn Find (21-page, PDF)
by
Baroness Gwynnyd
HOOD
Functional Viking Headpiece from the Birka Archeological Site
by Margaret "Mairghread" Wilcox
BELT
A Viking Belt based on the Skjoldehamn Find 1075CE Norway
by Lady Elska á Fjárfelli of the Dominion of Myrkfaelinn
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