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I will be posting my research, links and progress here for my interpretation(s) of the Viking Under Dress (VUD).
My First VUD Interpretation
Woman's Underdress
on Holyort.net
- The "Vidis" Underdress pattern interpretations on this page are from Hefdharfru Vigdís Vestfirzka, which she based on some Finnish Viking Under Dresses.It was probbaly found on HVV's page, "Viking/Norse Underdress" (http://www.silverdor.org/viking/underdress.html) which is no longer online.
Viking Damestunieken (6-page, PDF)
on Tjurslakter.nl
- The same interpretation is on the last page, page 6.
The interpretation that I have been using for my Under and Over Dresses (VUD & VOD) is the largest picture on the right side of the page, the Finnish Viking Under Dress. I will also be using it as a base for my Kaftan/Coat pattern with some minor changes.
It works well for a wide range of body types and for Flat Fell seam finishing. I also like where the sleeve and gore seams go, they are very comfortable for me and don't irritate my skin.
Here is my interpretation. Gussets have been added to the armpit area for improved arm mobility and to reduce the stress on the seams in that area. The keyhole neck opening is not quite circular, but a bit oval. The slit in the front is the minimum I need to easily slip over my head, I close it with a small penannular brooch or fubula.
There are several reasons why I prefer this interpretation:
- There are no shoulder seams between the neckhole and where the sleeve attached to the main body section.
- The side gores allow you to easily adjust the bust, waist and hips measurements.
- There are very few seams on the upper chest and back which I find uncomfortable.
Since I was using the fabric that I already hand on hand for my first VUD, I ended up using a thin, woven cotton fabric. Unfortunately, is frays very easily and quickly. To try and save the fabric and my project I decided to Flat Fell all of the seams using a sewing machine. For the hem I hand stitched a Blind Hem Stitch (#6) which is basically an invisible stitch when seen from the front.
I prefer using a keyhole neckline for my tunics In the summer they
offer me the best sun protection and some help reducing bug bites.
My sleeves go to my wrists provided I have enough material. The wrist opening is equal to by biceps so I am able to roll my sleeves up past my elbows if needed.
I am using a small fibula pin I made, with three glass beads on it, to close the neck opening. I would like to make a
small penannular or annular brooch for the VUD neck opening. A kilt pin and safety pin are types of fibulae (fibula is singular).
Lessons Learnt
Don't use fabric that frays easily. It was very frustrating to sew this material and I prefer to not do so again.
Before doing anything to zig-zag stitch all along the edges before washing the material at least twice.
NOTE
Please see my Sewing Tips, Stitches and Seams, and Textile Decorations pages for tips, suggestions and links.
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