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Gaeira's Anvil...BLOG
Metalsmithing Resources
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- Viking Apron Dress
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- Tablet Woven Belt, 2nd
- Woven Pouch
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RESEARCH
Viking Age: Jewelry
Metallic
- Construction
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Non-Metallic
- Lampwork, Glass Beads
Viking Age: Textiles
- Clothing
- Female Clothing
- 'Apron' Dress / VAD
- Hood
- Kaftan
- Leg Coverings NEW
Period Fiber Arts
- Fiber: Flax
- Fiber: Hemp
- Fiber: Lime Bast
- Fiber: Icelandic Wool
- Spinning
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- Wool Felting
-
Tablet Weaving
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- Icelandic Textiles
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Miscellany
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ICELANDIC VIKINGS
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VIKINGs/Norse
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Please also see: Hellenic Textiles and Artwork ; Hellenic Textile Techniques ; Hellenic Metallic Artwork ; Minoan and Mycenaean Textiles and Artwork ; Byzantine Textiles and Artwork
/ PEPLOS / CHITON / HIMATION / CHLAMYS / SPRANG Leggings/Pants / BUTTONS / METALLIC / MISCELLANEOUS / SCYTHIANS / PERSIANS / TOP
Greek clothing *****
by
Duchess Andromeda Lykaina (Guest Author)
- An excellent blog essay and website
Following the Classical Greek Drape throughout the Ages (50-page, PDF)
Ancient Greek Fashion
by
Janine Tierney
- Website essay, interetsing citations
Spartan Clothing and Dress
- Website
Dress and Dress Materials in Greece and Rome
by G. A. Faber
PEPLOS
Peplos on Wiki
- "A peplos (Greek: ὁ πέπλος) is a body-length garment established as typical attire for women in ancient Greece by 500 BC (the Classical period). It was a long, tubular cloth with the top edge folded down about halfway, so that what was the top of the tube was now draped below the waist, and the bottom of the tube was at the ankle. The garment was then gathered about the waist and the folded top edge pinned over the shoulders. The folded-down top of the tube provided the appearance of a second piece of clothing. (The Caryatid statues show a typical drapery.)[1] The peplos was draped and open on one side of the body, like the Doric chiton. It should not be confused with the Ionic chiton, which was a piece of fabric folded over and sewn together along the longer side to form a tube. The Classical garment is represented in Greek vase painting from the 5th century BC and in the metopes of temples in Doric order. Spartan women continued to wear the peplos much later in history than other Greek cultures. It was also shorter and with slits on the side causing other Greeks to call them phainomērídes (φαινομηρίδες) the "thigh-showers" "
Problems in Greek Dress Terminology: Kolpos and apoptygma
by
Mireille M. Lee
-
Zeitschrift für Papyrologie und Epigraphik Bd. 150 (2004), pp. 221-224
- purchase PDF or view online for free on JStore.org
- To see a sculpture with both as an example.
CHITON
Chiton (Costume) on Wiki
- "A chiton (Greek: χιτών, khitōn) was a form of clothing. There are two forms of chiton, the Doric chiton and the later Ionic chiton."
HIMATION
Himation on Wiki
- "A himation (Ancient Greek: ἱμάτιον) was a type of clothing, a mantle or wrap worn by ancient Greek men and women from the Archaic through the Hellenistic periods (c. 750–30 BC). It was usually worn over a chiton and/or peplos, but was made of heavier drape and played the role of a cloak or shawl. When the himation was used alone (without a chiton), and served both as a chiton and as a cloak, it was called an achiton. The himation was markedly less voluminous than the Roman toga. It was usually a large rectangular piece of woollen cloth. Many vase paintings depict women wearing a himation as a veil covering their faces.[1] The himation continued into the Byzantine era as "iconographic dress" used in art, worn by Christ, the Virgin Mary, and Biblical figures."
How to make a Triboun or Himation (Cloak)
- "The Greeks used a large cloak that they called a Himation. The Himation was about four to six feet wide, and six to eight feet long. The Spartans were known for a particular variety of Himation that they called a Triboun. They generally wore the Triboun wrapped around the body, under the right arm and pinned on top of the left shoulder. Wearing the Triboun in this manner left the sword arm free to move. Often they wore this as their only garment."
CHLAMYS
Chlamys on Wiki
"The chlamys (Ancient Greek: χλαμύς, gen.: χλαμύδος) was a type of an ancient Greek cloak.[1] By the time of the Byzantine Empire it was, although in a much larger form, part of the state costume of the emperor and high officials. It survived as such until at least the 12th century AD.
SPRANG Leggings/Pants *****
Please SEE: Sprang for tutorials and additional links; PERSIANS (Leggings)
Tight-fitting Clothes in Antiquity and the Renaissance (14-page, PDF) *****
by
Dagmar Drinkler
CarolJames's Projects
by
Carol James
- Examples of two sprang leggings she made inspired by Dagmar Drinkler
Sprang Pants: Version #2
by
Carol James
- Blog post
of her 2nd pair of sprang leggings/pants
- Her Sprang Legging posts
James, Carol. Sprang Unsprung. SashWeaver 2011.
ISBN 978-0-9784695-2-8
Re-creating Military Sashes: Reviving the Sprang Technique (9-page, PDF)
by
Carol James
BUTTONS
Buttons and Their Use on Greek Garments *****
by
Kate McK. Elderkin
American Journal of Archaeology Vol. 32, No. 3 (Jul. - Sep., 1928), pp. 333-345
- purchase PDF or view online for free on JStore.org
Representation and Realities. Fibulas and pins in Greek and Near Eastern Iconography (40-page, PDF) ****
by Cecilie Brøns
Gap Sleeve Fasteners 2.1 – Closures for the ionic chiton (16-page, PDF) ****
by Sharon Rose (a.k.a. Tullia Saturnina)
- "
Updated 1/8/15 and displayed at 12th Night, Jan 2015. 16 pgs.
Greek and Roman Dress from A to Z
by
Liza Cleland, Glenys Davies, Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones
[Google Books] [Google Books Preview]
METALLIC
MISCELLANEOUS
Intro To Roman Clothing (31-page, PDF) ****
by Sharon Rose (a.k.a. Tullia Saturnina)
-"
Updated 7/26/17 – Includes practical construction notes on hair, jewelry, clothes, and undergarments for men, women, and children. 31 pgs"
- Dye colors are discussed. This is an excellent research paper and website
- "video of my presentation here (20 min talk, 20 min Q&A)"
Women in Classical Greece
by Colette Hemingway (Independent Scholar)
- The Metropolitan Museum of Art's website
- Online essays, see "Further Reading" tab for book citation
Dress and Identity in Iron Age Italy. Fibulas as indicators of age and biological sex, and the identification of dress and garments (24-page, PDF)
by Cecilie Brøns
Fashion Costume and Culture, Vol 1, The Ancient World (261-page, PDF)
"Life in Ancient Greece"starting at page 172 of the file (p 113 of book)
(B)orders in Ancient Weaving and Archaic Greek Poetry (36-page, PDF)
by
Giovanni Fanfani and Ellen Harlizius-Klück
- "In this chapter we offer an investigation of textile terms where they are used for describing intellectual production or knowledge (epistēmē) in ancient texts. We focus on archaic Greek poetry as well as on selected philosophical works and experience from weaving experiments. The choice of the passages and the material to be discussed as well as the way the argument is built up reflect two different but – we believe ‒ complementary approaches to the topic we explore throughout this chapter: one is guided by an interest in ancient mathematics and philosophy and the other draws on literary criticism. Both have a role to play when tracing and contextualizing the (somewhat elusive) technological significance of textile imagery for archaic poetry and prose as well as for philosophy. This study arises from a common interest in the question of how ancient textile production, and particularly weaving, might have affected the very early discourse on poetry-making and the question of how poetic composition or the composition of texts as a technē might resemble the order of nature."
The fabric of society: recognising the importance of textiles and their manufacture in the ancient past (6-page, PDF)
by
Lin Foxhall
OLDEST PANTS/TROUSERS FOUND, Scythian
Oldest known trousers found in China
by The History Blog
- Large images, patterns, and photographs
- Blog
First pants worn by horse riders 3,000 years ago Oldest known trousers originated in Central Asia
by Bruce Bower
Who Invented Trousers? ***
by
Adrienne Mayor
Warrior Women: The Myth and Reality of the Amazons ***
by
Adrienne Mayor
- "As the Greeks learned more about Scythians, they added realistic details to their artistic depictions o! Amazons, who were shown riding horses, swinging battle-axes, shooting arrows, and wearing patterned trousers and tunics decorated with animal designs. One feature remained constant in all the Greek myths, however. Despite their courage, beauty, and might, Amazons could never emerge victorious over Greek men."
The invention of trousers and its likely affiliation with horseback riding and mobility: A case study of late 2nd millennium B.C. finds from Turfan in eastern Central Asia.
by U. Beck et al.
- Quaternary International. Published May 22, 2014. doi:10.1016/j.quaint.2014.04.056.
- Not Free, for purchase only
SCYTHIANS, Amazon Women? [Pants/Trousers]
Scithians: Clothing on Wiki
Scythians Indo-Iranian? or Turanian Turks?
by Tarih Ve Arkeoloji
- Blog
- "The Classical Greek did not even have a word for 'trousers'. 'Barbarian' meaning was :non-greek speaking."
Ancinet costumes and fasion history of Asia Minor: The Scythians
Amazon Women wore wool felt – did they also wear sprang?
- article
PERSIANS [Theory, the complicated patterned and colorful Leggings were Sprang]
Please SEE: Sprang (technique) for tutorials and additional links; Hellenic Textile Techniques: SPRANG
Tight-fitting Clothes in Antiquity and the Renaissance (14-page, PDF) *****
by
Dagmar Drinkler
Die Rekonstruktion eng anliegender Bekleidung aus Antike und Renaissance (99-page, PDF) *****
by
Dagmar Drinkler
- In German only
-
Bayerisches Nationalmuseum München
War Imagery in Women's Textiles: An International Study of Weaving, Knitting, Sewing, Quilting, Rug Making and Other Fabric Arts
by Deborah A. Deacon, Paula E. Calvin
- "Based on the imagery on Greek ceramic vases, Bagmar Drinkler has speculated that the Darius' army was wearing sprang as it invaded Greece in the sixth century BCA."
[Google Books] [Google Books Preview]
Darius I on Wiki
[above quote references his army that participated in the fiirst Persian invasion, his son and successor Xer]
- "Darius I (c. 550–486 BCE) was the fourth king of the Persian Achaemenid Empire. Also called Darius the Great, he ruled the empire at its peak,"
First Persian invasion of Greece on Wiki [also here] also Aftermath of this first invasion.
"This expedition was finally ready by 480 BC, and the second Persian invasion of Greece thereby began, under the command of Xerxes himself.[94]"
^^^
Greek hoplite and Persian warrior depicted fighting. 5th century BC on Wiki [vase image]
[WorldCat] [Publisher] [Google Books] [Google Books Preview]
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