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Gaeira's Anvil...BLOG
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Please also see: Hellenic Textiles and Artwork ; Hellenic Clothing ; Hellenic Metallic Artwork ; Minoan and Mycenaean Textiles and Artwork ; Byzantine Textiles
Also see: Fiber: Flax ; Weaving ; Sprang (Technique)
PUBLISHED ARTICLES /BOOKS / THESES / RESOURCES / On FACEBOOK / TEXTILE TECHNIQUES / TABLET WEAVING / SPRANG / MOTIFS / DIGITAL EXHIBITIONS / VASES / DYEING / MISCELLANEOUS / TOP
PUBLISHED ARTICLES
BOOKS
Textile production in classical Athens ****
by
Stella Spantidaki
- There's a Tablet Weaving chapter
[WorldCat] [Publisher] [Google Books]
Ancient textiles : production, craft and society : proceedings of the First International Conference on Ancient Textiles, held at Lund, Sweden, and Copenhagen, Denmark, on March 19-23, 2003
[WorldCat] [Google Books Preview]
Prehistoric Textiles The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with Special Reference to the Aegean
by E.J.W. Barber
[WorldCat] [Publisher] [Google Books] [Google Books Preview]
[Google Books] [Google Books Preview]
- "This pioneering work revises our notions of the origins and early development of textiles in Europe and the Near East. Using innovative linguistic techniques, along with methods from palaeobiology and other fields, it shows that spinning and pattern weaving began far earlier than has been supposed."
- Doesn't seem to cover Ancient Greece
THESES
The Importance of Cloth: Aegean Textile Representation in Neopalatial Wall Painting [136-page, PDF]
by
Cristin J. Donahue
- Master's Thesis, 2006
- SEE pp 90 and 97***** [four-pointed star and dotted grid motifs]
The Aegean and the East: An Investigation into the Exchange of Artistic Motifs - between the Aegean, Egypt, and the Near East in the Bronze Age
Volumn 1 [305-page, PDF]
Volumn 2 [176-page, PDF] pp. 86, 90, 92, 99, Spirals 101-105, Star Disk in Crescant 111 *****
by J.L. Crowley
- Thesis
"The aim of this thesis is to investigate the artistic phenomenon that, in the Bronze Age, many motifs were used in common by the arts of the Aegean, Egypt, and the Near East, in order to come to a conclusion as to whether this common usage can be attributed to indigenous creation in each separate area or whether it is due to crossfertilisation of the artistic traditions."
Textile Tools and Production at a Mycenaean Secondary Centre [207-page, PDF]
By Max K. MacDonald
- Master's Thesis
PUBLISHED ARTICLES /BOOKS / THESES / RESOURCES / On FACEBOOK / TEXTILE TECHNIQUES / TABLET WEAVING / SPRANG / MOTIFS / DIGITAL EXHIBITIONS / VASES / DYEING / MISCELLANEOUS / TOP
RESOURCES
Arachne Journal *****
- 4 issues available for free download. Many articles are in Greece, a few are in English, but there's an English edition of #3.
- "Arachne is a periodical edition of the Hellenic Centre for Research and Conservation of Archaeological Textiles (ARTEX), first issued in 2003. Its main goal is to raise awareness on the existence of fragments of archaeological textiles in Greece and to serve as an instrument for the dissemination of the archaeological textile research in Greece and abroad. It was initially thought as the media for the publication of the studies of extant textiles by ARTEX, but it quickly welcomed diverse publications on ancient textiles (from the Bronze Age until the Roman era, studies on iconography, written texts, textile tools etc.). Arachne also hosts papers of students working on various facets of textile production and technology in Greece."
On FACEBOOK
Centre for Textile Research
- the fb page for this research centre
Ancient SCA
- "Ancient Greek and Roman SCA heavies and their consorts"
Romans of the S.C.A.
- "This group for targeted discussion about creating/improving Roman personae (and related provincial cultures) within the Society For Creative Anachronism. If you seek to join and your profile does not show signs that you participate in the SCA, your application may be held! Please note that you can ask the moderators questions before you join. This is a good way for us to find out whether the group will be right for you."
Goin' Minoan: An Exploration into the Clothing of the Minoan Woman *****
by Vesta Antonia Aurelia (Barbara van Look)
[on Gallery on acebook]
PUBLISHED ARTICLES /BOOKS / THESES / RESOURCES / On FACEBOOK / TEXTILE TECHNIQUES / TABLET WEAVING / SPRANG / MOTIFS / DIGITAL EXHIBITIONS / VASES / DYEING / MISCELLANEOUS / TOP
TEXTILE TECHNIQUES (Including Tablet Weaving)
Embellishment Techniques of Classical Greek Textile ********* [Many article]
by Stella Spantidaki
- SEE PDF page 47, book page 34
Textile production in classical Athens *****
by Stella Spantidaki
- There's a Tablet Weaving chapter
[WorldCat] [Publisher] [Google Books]
Χ. Λούκος, Ν. Ξιφαράς and Κ. Πατεράκη (eds.) Ubi dubium ibi libertas. Τιμητικός Τόμος για τον Καθηγητή Νικόλα Φαράκλα. Ρέθυμνο, Εκδόσεις Φιλοσοφικής Σχολής Πανεπιστημίου Κρήτης. 2009 (387-page, PDF) **********
- In Greek, great articles
Decoration Techniques ***************
on ARTEX website
Textile Materials and Techniques in Central Europe in the 2nd and 1st Millennia BC (14-page, PDF) ***
by
Karina Grömer
AN APPROACH ABOUT KELTOI (C) – celtic clothing 1
by sooteris kyritsis
- "Posted on July 17, 2012
(BEING CONTINUED FROM 03/11/11)"
Pattern Library *****
- Historical Tablet Weaving patterns including ones inspired from Ancient Greek motifs
TABLET WEAVING (To start and end Warp-Weighted Loom weavings, similar to Viking Age weaving)
Reconstruction of decorative patterns depicted on garments in wall-paintings from Akrotiri, Santorini, using the warp-weighted loom and tablet-weaving **********
Preliminary results from the reconstruction of Theran textiles (PDF)
by Stella Spantidaki
- "In C. Alfaro and L. Karali (eds.) Purpureae Vestes II. Textiles and Dyes in Antiquity. Proceedings of the second International Conference on Textiles and Dyes of the Mediterrannean in the ancient world, Athens, 24-26 November 2005. University of Valencia, 43-48. "
Πρώτα αποτελέσματα από την ανακατασκευή θηραϊκών υφασμάτων. In Χ. Λούκος, Ν. Ξιφαράς and Κ. Πατεράκη (eds.) Ubi dubium ibi libertas. Τιμητικός Τόμος για τον Καθηγητή Νικόλα Φαράκλα. Ρέθυμνο, Εκδόσεις Φιλοσοφικής Σχολής Πανεπιστημίου Κρήτης. 2009 (387-page, PDF)
by Stella Spantidaki [Στέλλα Σπαντιδάκη]
- SEE PDF page 65, booklette page 73
- Shows Tablet Weaving experiments **********
Χ. Λούκος, Ν. Ξιφαράς and Κ. Πατεράκη (eds.) Ubi dubium ibi libertas. Τιμητικός Τόμος για τον Καθηγητή Νικόλα Φαράκλα. Ρέθυμνο, Εκδόσεις Φιλοσοφικής Σχολής Πανεπιστημίου Κρήτης. 2009 (387-page, PDF)
- In Greek, great articles
Decoration Techniques ***************
on ARTEX website
Experimental archaeology Tablet weaving **********
- "Photo S. Spantidaki. One category of projects carried out by the ARTEX research team is experimental archaeology. Until today, experiments have focused on the reconstruction of textile tools, extant textiles and decorative patterns depicted in ancient iconography. The techniques investigated include spinning with a spindle, weaving on reconstructed a warp-weighted loom, tablet weaving and sprang. Another topic of research was the function of loom-weights on the warp-weighted loom and the methodology of a functional study of textile tools, which can yield information on the characteristics of textiles potentially produced with a specific set of tools. In the future, we look forward to study technical details of ancient Greek clothing in different periods, such as clothing design and embellishment."
SPRANG *****
in German, Sprangtechnik
Please SEE: Sprang for tutorials and additional links; SCYTHIANS, Amazon Women? ; PERSIANS (Leggings)
"Cf. Pyxix acc. no. CA 587, about 450 BC, Paris Louvre." [Vase]
Summary: Women engaged in weaving and other household activities
Ware: Attic Red Figure
Painter: Attributed to the Painter of the Louvre Centauromachy
Context: From Greece ; Date: ca. 460 BC - ca. 440 BC
- See both of
Dagmar Drinkler's publications below for more imagery
Amazon Women wore wool felt – did they also wear sprang?
- article
Tight-Fitting Clothes in Antiquity – Experimental Reconstruction (30-page, PDF) *****
by
Dagmar Drinkler
Tight-fitting Clothes in Antiquity and the Renaissance (14-page, PDF) *****
by
Dagmar Drinkler
"The pattern of the textile is determined by the arrangement of threads in different colours that are stretched around the frame before starting to work. Single-layer sprang is suitable for stripes, small zigzag and rhomboid patterns, which look the same at the front and the reverse. A variation of this is the double zigzag pattern that can be found on the sculpture of Paris (figs. 5-7) 3 . In two-layer sprang, following the pattern, the threads of one colour are placed over the threads of the other colour, thus producing two layers that are not connected.
As the threads move diagonally in plaiting, patterns with diagonal lines can easily be created and are especially suitable for sprang. By interchanging the layers a coloured pattern can be obtained. When working like that with only two colours the pattern is in opposite colour scheme on the reverse. If the second layer is worked in several colours a diamond pattern in different colours can be obtained.
In three-layer sprang a third colour is simply added when stretching the threads around the frame in the beginning. Thus front and reverse will show one colour respectively, while the third colour is hidden in between (figs. 10, 11).
By interchanging several layers all patterns of ancient dress depicted in works of art can be created. When using the same thread material a piece of two-layer sprang is twice as thick and heavy as a piece of the same size in single-layer sprang. With the use of finer threads labour does not increase linearly but exponentially because more threads have to be placed around the frame. There is also the possibility of making a pattern by alternating between single-layer and two-layer sprang. However, this requires some more threads in width than in single-layer sprang because the elasticity is reduced a little. "
Die Rekonstruktion eng anliegender Bekleidung aus Antike und Renaissance (99-page, PDF) *****
by
Dagmar Drinkler
- In German only
-
Bayerisches Nationalmuseum München
Dagmar Drinkler, Eng anliegende Bekleidung in Antike und Renaissance. In: Zeitschrift für Kunsttechnologie und Konservierung 24, 2010, 5–35.
- cannot find it online
Des Paris neue Kleider
by
Dagmar Drinkler
Srang Sleeve at the museum exhibit, scroll down to, Des Paris neue Kleider
"Paris's new clothes Dagmar Drinkler presents the lost weaving technique of the so-called "spreader". Paris, known from the exhibition "Colorful Gods", not only paints his clothes in the Cast Museum, but also lets them try them on for the first time. There, other ancient textile techniques are reconstructed, such as the drapery room in the background. Photo: Museum / Roy Hessing The textile restorer from the Bavarian National Museum, Dagmar Drinkler, introduces the now-forgotten braiding technique of so-called "spreader". This technique can be proven by real textile finds already for the Bronze and Hallstatt period, the first representations that show the production can be found in the ancient vase painting. Textiles made using the technology of sprang technology can be detected almost worldwide and through all eras, right up to the beginning of the 19th century. With increasing industrialization, however, this technique disappeared and is barely known today. For the first time, it will be shown that all the patterns of the textiles of the ancient world, which are closely attached to the body and of which there are unfortunately no real findings yet, can be used in this technique." [Original text in German, translated by Google Translate"
PUBLISHED ARTICLES /BOOKS / THESES / RESOURCES / On FACEBOOK / TEXTILE TECHNIQUES / TABLET WEAVING / SPRANG / MOTIFS / DIGITAL EXHIBITIONS / VASES / DYEING / MISCELLANEOUS / TOP
MOTIFS
Patterns of Culture: Decorative Weaving Techniques (80-page, PDF) ***
by M A Hann and B G Thomas
DIGITAL EXHIBITIONS
Colors of Classical Art (Exhibit): Textiles and the Figure
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a digital exhibition
Ancient Greek textiles
by TRC digital exhibitions
VASES
PUBLISHED ARTICLES /BOOKS / THESES / RESOURCES / On FACEBOOK / TEXTILE TECHNIQUES / TABLET WEAVING /SPRANG / MOTIFS / DIGITAL EXHIBITIONS / VASES / DYEING / MISCELLANEOUS / TOP
DYEING, DYE, and COLORS
Dyeing in Greece
b
y G.A.Faber
Intro To Roman Clothing (31-page, PDF) ****
by Sharon Rose (a.k.a. Tullia Saturnina)
-"
Updated 7/26/17 – Includes practical construction notes on hair, jewelry, clothes, and undergarments for men, women, and children. 31 pgs"
- Dye colors are discussed
- "video of my presentation here (20 min talk, 20 min Q&A)"
Colours of the Romans
Archive for the 'General Dye Information' Category
by Jenny Dean
- website
The Chemical History of Color (161-page, PDF)
by
Mary Virginia Orna
The History of the Sacred Purple: The Use of Muricidae as a Dye Source
- "My presentation for single entry at the 2017 An Tir Kingdom Arts and Sciences Competition in the SCA. My persona is Claire le Deyare, a journeywoman dyer and bookbinder focusing on multiple eras in history. March 11th, 2017 Clearwater Casino in Suquamish, WA. Filmed on my iPhone 7."
- Video of a presentation
Early evidence (late 2nd millennium BCE) of plant-based dyeing of textiles from Timna, Israel
- not free, need to purchase it
- See the References for a list of citations to follow
Ancient Greek Clothing
"Materials: Clothes in Greece were made out of three types of materials. The most frequently used material was wool, which was woven from very coarse to very soft. Women and men in Greece wore nearly the same kind of clothes. These clothes were not shaped or fitted to the body, but were instead draped over the body in soft folds. There were basically four types of clothes, which were all rectangles.
Colors: The colors used during this period were bright hued, such as green, indigo, yellow, violet, dark red, dark purple. Colors that were from the Earth were also used. The motifs used ranged from geometric designs like the dentil and arrangement of circles and squares to vegetable forms like the ivy, water leaf and laurel."
MADDER
Technological insights into madder pigment production in antiquity (17-psge, PDF)
by
Vincent Daniels, Thibaut Devièse, Marei Hacke and Catherine Higgitt
- The British Museum, Technical Research Bulletin, vol 8, 2014
Red, Redder, Madder: Analysis and isolation of anthraquinones from madder roots (Rubia tinctorum) (160-psge, PDF)
by G.C.H. Derksen
- Thesis
Coats of Many Colours: Dyeing and Dyeworks in Classical and Hellenistic Greece (266-psge, PDF)
by Mark D. Monaghan, BA (Leicester) School of Archaeology and Ancient History University of Leicester
- PhD, Thesis
2001
Madder
from The Chemistry of Paints and Painting
"is a free (online)textbook on chemical aspects of painting."
Madder – Rubia tinctorum (1-page, PDF)
MISCELLANEOUS
Intro To Roman Clothing (31-page, PDF) ****
by Sharon Rose (a.k.a. Tullia Saturnina)
-"
Updated 7/26/17 – Includes practical construction notes on hair, jewelry, clothes, and undergarments for men, women, and children. 31 pgs"
- Dye colors are discussed. This is an excellent research paper and website
- "video of my presentation here (20 min talk, 20 min Q&A)"
(B)orders in Ancient Weaving and Archaic Greek Poetry (36-page, PDF)
by
Giovanni Fanfani and Ellen Harlizius-Klück
- "In this chapter we offer an investigation of textile terms where they are used for describing intellectual production or knowledge (epistēmē) in ancient texts. We focus on archaic Greek poetry as well as on selected philosophical works and experience from weaving experiments. The choice of the passages and the material to be discussed as well as the way the argument is built up reflect two different but – we believe ‒ complementary approaches to the topic we explore throughout this chapter: one is guided by an interest in ancient mathematics and philosophy and the other draws on literary criticism. Both have a role to play when tracing and contextualizing the (somewhat elusive) technological significance of textile imagery for archaic poetry and prose as well as for philosophy. This study arises from a common interest in the question of how ancient textile production, and particularly weaving, might have affected the very early discourse on poetry-making and the question of how poetic composition or the composition of texts as a technē might resemble the order of nature."
The fabric of society: recognising the importance of textiles and their manufacture in the ancient past (6-page, PDF)
by
Lin Foxhall
PUBLISHED ARTICLES /BOOKS / THESES / RESOURCES / On FACEBOOK / TEXTILE TECHNIQUES / TABLET WEAVING / SPRANG / MOTIFS / DIGITAL EXHIBITIONS / VASES / DYEING / MISCELLANEOUS / TOP
[WorldCat] [Publisher] [Google Books] [Google Books Preview]
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